Staybridge Suites – Manchester

Always like to stay somewhere special on the solstice, and this was a little slice of heaven in Manchester.

I don’t think Mrs C minded too much either.

A suite to die for…

In fact, when can we move in?

Oh, did I mention the amazing dining area downstairs?

With the incredible mocktails?

Nomtastic flatbreads…

And the world’s best sushi?

Thanks Staybridge Suites. Review coming soon…

Restaurant review: The Alice Hawthorn Inn, Nun Monkton

Restaurant review: The Alice Hawthorn Inn, Nun Monkton 

Roger Crow/@RogerCrow

I’d never been to Nun Monkton, that picturesque little village between York and Harrogate, but I’d heard good things about The Alice Hawthorn Inn. So when offered the chance, we set off on the 35-mile drive wondering what we might expect.

It’s relatively easy to find, and when we rock up 45 minutes early, it gives us a chance to get a parking space and have a wander. I’m glad we’re early because the place is idyllic. A family of ducks are enjoying life on the village pond, and there’s a chance for selfies by the UK’s largest maypole.

Then there’s the cows, happily keeping the the village green trim, some idling away in the road while 4×4 drivers patiently wait for them to get where they’re going. The idyllic church tucked away at the end of a country lane, framed by a weeping willow is also a must visit, while the red phone box on a green is a lovely touch. There’s no litter, noise or revving engines. It’s one of the most idyllic places I’ve been.

So how does the beating heart of the community, the local watering hole, live up to this perfect setting?

The answer is very well.

After ordering a couple of drinks, Rachel and I are shown to our window seat in a beautiful dining room.

Paintings of dogs in clothes could have been the epitome of kitsch, but here they work surprisingly well. Next to us, an old oak table that could have been plucked from the set of Game of Thrones.

While waiting for our starters, we watch the local ’lawn mowers’ chomp their way across the village green.

Though the skies are leaden, it doesn’t detract from the atmosphere a bit. It feels like we’re in an animated Constable painting,

The waiting staff, Sam, Helen and Enzo, do a terrific job. It’s not long before we feel at home, and the stresses of the hour-long drive have melted away.

I opt for Ee By Heck – scotch egg, Alice’s black pudding, belly pork and scrumpy jus. Every element complements one another beautifully, and as someone who grew up on black pudding, and had a few decades off, this is the best I’ve tasted.

Rachel opts for Leek and Jersey Royal Potato soup finished with Parmesan and chive cream from the specials menu. It’s delicious, and perfect for a day which feels more autumnal than mid-summer.

Now given the fact we’d just watched a family of ducks and a herd of cows, there’s little surprise I avoid such items on the menu.

I’m torn between choosing something I think I should have, aka daring and a little pretentious because of the food snob in me, or good old fish and chips. Though I’m happy to pepper a review with phrases like “amuse bouche”, good old Yorkshire common sense wins out. By ’eck, that Ee by Heck has clearly worked its magic.

The North Sea haddock fillet in an ale batter with minted garden peas and tartare sauce is just the ticket for a Saturday lunch time. The chips are equally outstanding, and at £13.95, it won’t break the bank either.

Rachel’s vegetarian choice is a lot more daring. A Roast Cauliflower Steak with mushrooms, pistachios, hazelnuts, baby spinach and truffle proves a great blend of flavours. You get a lot for your £14.50. “Half the amount would have been fine,” she explains.

“Have you decided on calories?” asks Enzo as I choose dessert.

I go for sticky toffee pudding with caramel sauce and vanilla ice cream. Though it’s the weak link in an impressive chain of dishes (the pudding is slightly over cooked), it’s not a deal-breaker. I still demolish two thirds.

Over great cappuccinos and complimentary fudge, my sugar rush leaves me buzzing.

It’s one of the most enjoyable dining experiences we’ve had all year, and the fact The Alice Hawthorn Inn is now building new rooms means we wouldn’t need to think twice about popping back later in the year. 

So, a glorious place for dining and a drink, with wonderful staff. In fact in the local area, I’d say that when it comes to outstanding dinners, there’s nun better.

Ends

The Ivy Brasserie, The Grange Hotel, York

Restaurant review 
The Ivy Brasserie, The Grange Hotel, York
Roger Crow/@RogerCrow

It’s the end of a great week off and thankfully a sun-kissed evening when my partner and I arrive at York’s Grange Hotel. 
I’m pretty sure I came here for a wedding reception more than a decade ago, but it’s been so long since I’ve been to this part of town it’s hard to remember. 
The 4-star hotel is a few minutes’ walk from the city centre, so easy enough to find on foot. 


Since 1830, the Grade II listed building in the Bootham part of York has been entertaining the masses, but I want to see if its two Rosette restaurant The Ivy Brasserie is as good as the advertising blurb promises. 

Rachel and I have been invited for dinner, and though we’re a little early, it’s not long before we’re shown to our table. 
The ambience is cosy, the decor elegant and the staff cannot do enough to help. 


There’s plenty of goodies on the menu, so for starters I opt for salmon gravadlax with Lilliput capers and beetroot aioli. It’s a tasty dish, beautifully arranged, and tickles the palate a treat. 
Given a choice between house white and red, we opt for the latter, and at 14 per cent, the Carlotta Nero d’Avola from Sicily is a full-bodied affair. It’s a dry wine with cinnamon notes and a fresh finish. It’s also suitable for vegetarians and vegans, so a good all rounder depending on your food tastes. 


Rachel opts for roasted red pepper soup, which is delicious, especially with warm crusty rolls. 


My roasted chicken breast main is to die for. A beautifully tender and flavoursome dish, especially when combined with fondant potato, spring greens and carrot purée. 
I’ve had enough bad experiences with roast chicken in the past when it arrives over cooked or too dry, but this is exceptionally good. 


Rachel’s mushroom, puy lentil and walnut strudel with griddled vegetables and roasted pepper coulis is outstanding, a welcome change to the default vegetarian risotto that many unimaginative restaurants go for. 

“I don’t know who chose the flavours but I’m pleasantly surprised,” she enthuses, adding: “Lentils can be a little bland, but these have a really nice texture and flavour to them.”
She leaves a little room for dessert, and I don’t need much persuasion to finish it off. 


When you’ve been together 15 years, certain menu items jump out as you try and guess your partner’s dish. Rhubarb and crumble desserts are usually a default for Rachel, so I’m surprised when she opts for filo-wrapped baked Brie, with truffle honey and apple chutney. One mouthful and her face melts into a one-word response. “Ohmygodthat’sace”. 
I have to agree. 


Though there’s a little mix up with my chocolate brownie (a creme brûlée arrives), it not long before I’m tucking into the right dish. I’d have liked it warm, with a gooey chocolate centre, but certainly no complaints in the quality department. 


As we head off on a beautiful evening, there’s no doubt we’d return for dinner one day. The food is terrific, and just to repeat that earlier statement, the staff are exceptional. It’s the sort of dining experience we’ll look back on as the nights draw in and reflect on the perfect evening. Great food, drink, weather and ambience. What more do you need in life?

The Miller of Mansfield, Goring-on-Thames

The Miller of Mansfield, Goring-on-Thames

Roger Crow/@RogerCrow
The sky has been the colour of white noise all day. Rain and more rain. 
After a 70-mile drive from Bristol, I’m glad of a well earned rest, and The Miller of Mansfield in Goring-on-Thames is just the ticket for recharging exhausted batteries. 
My partner and I are at the tail-end of a four-day holiday, all because of Take That. Their gig in Bristol the night before attracted 31,000 folks, and following a crazy few days, all I want is a quiet, cosy hostelry with a good meal. 
Although there’s no immediate on-site parking, you can drop off luggage before parking in the public car park that’s signposted down the lane opposite The Miller’s front entrance. It’s surprisingly cheap too for such a well-off area. 
Check-in is quick, friendly and efficient. 
“It’s really quirky and old fashioned, but in a nice way,” remarks an impressed Rachel, as she explores our room, The Goring Suite. 
I have to agree. We’re lucky enough to have a main bedroom and secondary bedroom with a glorious bathroom. 
The main room boasts a hugely comfortable bed which looks like a prop from Bedknobs and Broomsticks. 
The coffee maker, as endorsed by George Clooney, ensures hardcore java lovers like myself will be very satisfied. There’s a travel kettle as standard, and every variation of boutique tea, except good old fashioned English Breakfast. (I’m sure a quick word with reception would amend that issue). 
The second bedroom, which contains a single bed, also has that idyllic charm. As for the bathroom, it’s a delight. Heated towel rail; old school tub; exquisite tiling and a great shower. Everything the weary traveller needs to feel human again. 
After a cuppa, with the moreish golden syrup biscuits provided, we fiddle with the temperature controls. It’s late May so should be warm, but a little chilly and the radiators don’t seem to be playing ball. 
A good time to pop down for dinner. 
Access to our suite is a bit of a climb, and thank heavens for the ’Mind Your head’ sign as two flights of steps could take out tall guys like me on at least three occasions, so take care if you’ve had a pint or three. 
The ground floor consists of cosy bar area and restaurant. There’s no shortage of goodies on the menu as we sit by a window and hope some sign of blue or sun will pierce the sky. 
The Miller of Mansfield is an 18th-century coaching inn run by Nick and Mary Galer. They both worked for The Fat Duck Group, so any link to Heston Blumenthal has my attention having been fascinated by his work for years.  
The atmosphere is as relaxed as the advertised blurb promises, and another tick for the fact “the food is refined but unpretentious, and occasionally experimental”. 
I fancy a local tipple, so opt for Good Old Boy beer. And it’s a great choice which goes down rather well, while Rachel’s rhubarb gin with lemonade also proves hugely popular. 
The food is as good as I hoped for on every level, from the sourdough bread with bacon butter, (which tastes like bonfires, in a good way thanks to its smoky quality) to the delicious pea mousse, a delicate amuse bouche which is a fine taste of delights to come. 
I enjoy a wild garlic and ricotta tortellini for starters, which is tasty without being overpowering. A soft pillow of pasta combined with beautiful veg makes it very welcome. 
Rachel’s poached pheasant egg is also a triumph. 
For mains, her nettle gnocchi is a bold choice, and though it doesn’t go down as well as the mousse, it’s a fascinating experience. Nettle purée, toasted hazelnuts, morel mushrooms and goats’ cheese is a fine combination of flavours. 
I opt for the 35-day aged salt chamber beef, with beer cabbage, white onion purée, beef fat chips and bearnaise tuile. You get a lot for your money, and it’s as delicious as it sounds. I’d have been happy with less meat, but no complaints. (Impossible to write this without my mouth watering). 
Dessert is a triumph. My cherry soup (creme freche, panna cotta and pistachios) is one of those stunning creations, beautifully prepared and flawless. However, Rachel’s steals the show – an audacious rhubarb and custard with ginger granola, rhubarb sorbet and… drum roll please – Marmite meringue. 
Yes, that’s the daring sort of experiment which makes the difference between a good meal and an outstanding one. The fact it tastes terrific is obviously crucial. 
We retire to the bar area and over cappuccinos and macarons, we soak up the ambience before retiring to our now cosy, warm room. 
Having slept like proverbial logs (that wild garlic creating the sort of dreams David Lynch would find bizarre), we enjoy another terrific dining experience.
My Miller English breakfast (triple smoked bacon, sausage, egg, mushrooms, black pudding and toast tick all the boxes. You get tomato too, but due to personal taste, I never bother). Rachel opts for poached eggs on seeded toast, and together with tea and coffee, it makes an ideal start to the day. By the way, the waiting staff are excellent. 
It’s not hard to see why the place has attracted a lot of attention, including Best Restaurant at the 2018 Thames Valley Hospitality Awards, and Best Independent Restaurant at the same bash for 2019. 
There’s plenty of local amenities, including a convenience shop and cash machines a short walk away. 
On the subject of walks, the local area is a delight. The sort of picture-postcard views you see in TV dramas or brochures advertising quintessential English villages. 
We wouldn’t need much persuading to stay again, or enjoy that amazing food and drink. It’s a Goring hostelry that’s far from boring, and genuinely outstanding in its (Mans)field.