Hotel review
The Tennants Arms Hotel, Kilnsey
By Roger Crow/@RogerCrow
How shall I describe my dessert? It’s like an angel wept chocolate tears of happiness that formed an archipelago of fondant onto a liquid cloud of peanut butter.
Outside, a chorus of lambs, geese and chickens are providing the soundtrack to my sun-kissed evening. A few miles up the road is Malham Cove, where Harry Potter seemed to spend hours camping in the first Deathly Hallows (the film I dubbed Harry On Camping), and across the road, lambs are bouncing around like Tigger in fields which look like a page from an idyllic Yorkshire calendar.
As random days off go, this is the one I’ll remember when I look back on 2019.
I’m in Kilnsey where the new owners of The Tennants Arms Hotel have invited me to stay. Given the fact the place is so popular, I’m not surprised many weekends are booked up, so with a Monday free, I throw some things in a case and head off.
Two hours after setting off, and a great drive through Harrogate, and past old haunts in Skipton and Burnsall (because I missed a turn off), I’m on the doorstep. And it’s a terrific place. Spacious bar area, good service and prices which won’t break the bank.
I check in at 3pm and my room proves to be very attractive. Comfy bed, tastefully decorated. Window seat/sill for watching the world go by and a great bathroom, with an actual bath, shower and everything you’d expect from a decent hotel room.
So, priorities. Can I get a decent cuppa?
Thankfully there’s a kettle and a selection of hot drinks available, along with milk sachets and a couple of welcome biscuits.
Should you run out of tea or coffee, there’s more sachets on the landing, which is a nice touch. There’s also a small TV, which sometimes annoys me if too far away or angled in sunlight, but in this case it’s more than adequate.
There’s plenty to do on the doorstep, from horse riding and cycling to rock climbing. However, as this is a glorified flying visit, I have time for a pint and a chance to survey the other rooms before sampling the menu.
And the rooms are terrific. A mixture of styles but all very tastefully done with envious bathrooms and furniture.
I’d heard good things about the food, but of course, the proof of the pudding.
The recommended local Kinsey trout carbonara sounds intriguing, and as I like to leave my comfort zone, I take a punt. It does not disappoint. The fresh egg tagliatelle and fish works perfectly. A great dish, beautifully presented.
The real revelation however, as you’ll have gathered by my introduction, is the chocolate fondant semi fredo with peanut butter and mint. A few weeks ago I had a terrific meal which ticked all the boxes from the service, starter and main to the setting. But then the chocolate dessert arrived and it was a huge let down. No such problems here. A perfect balance of flavours ensure it might be a much needed sugar rush, but it’s not so sickly sweet I am defeated half way through. The fact it’s gluten free is a definite bonus if that’s your Achilles heel.
I have a wander around at sunset to kid myself I’m burning calories, and to film some of the local wildlife. The scenery is amazing.
After a terrific night’s sleep in a very comfy bed, I’m up at the crack of dawn to make the 75-mile journey home.
Thankfully I meet the executive chef and new owner before I leave. At 25, Tom Garland-Jones might look fresh faced, but he has a wealth of international experience under his belt. He’s worked in Michelin restaurants as well as larger hotels in the UK and USA. The publicity blurb suggests he “brings a vibrant and colourful change to menus commonly found at Gastro Pubs and Inns”.
He certainly does that. I thank him for one of the best meals I’ve had all year. The dessert alone was a masterpiece, so even if you don’t plan on staying (though I highly recommend it), at least pop in for dinner.
As bright young British chefs go, Tom is definitely a name to watch, and I won’t need much persuading to pay a return visit next time I’m passing.
Ends.
Roger Crow: Gastroentertainus 